Ask anyone who knows me: I am an unrepentant fan of Marc Jacobs’ runway shows — not just the clothes he sends down the runway which are often as confusing and confounding as they are awe-inspiring — but the girl he creates and the world she lives in.
His closing show at New York Fashion Week — for Spring 2015 — was no exception.
As usual his girl looked unlike anyone else and totally the girl you wish you were (Or the girl I wish I was when I was much younger). This time instead of wearing disheveled disco shags and artfully smudged eyes ( I still love you so much Fall 2013!) the models wore blunt-banged bobs and virtually no makeup. I say “virtually” no makeup because no less a beauty icon than Francois Nars “did” the girls in the most adept no-makeup makeup look ever accomplished. By some reports they simply wore moisturizer.
Who gets Francois Nars to apply moisturizer and nothing more to models? Marc Jacobs, that’s who.
The clothes were similarly hypnotic and discombobulating.
Rendered in military khaki, olive and blues (against the background of a bubble gum pink house because ….?) at first the exaggerated army jackets, uber baggy pants with cargo pockets that literally could carry actual cargo (no purse needed) adorned with giant grommets, cabochons and guipure lace looks almost cartoonish in a sort of hallucinatory way.
But then, I started to see the possibilities.
I like to look at runway clothes and figure out how they would look on the street, and the more I look the more I see how it would work.
I want to wear one of the waist-highlighting jackets open over a pair of skinny jeans or leggings with a black tank or turtleneck or striped tee. I want to wear the super slouchy cropped army cargo pants with a tight white ribbed tank because slim on top, full on bottom is a silhouette I can get behind. Also, as full as the pants are when paired with a slim top they will mimic the silhouette of the swingiest full-skirted dress; it’ll just be more badass than princess.
Some of the dresses — still evoking a uniform in this very cohesive collection — are very pretty and worth wearing exactly as presented.
As for the shoes? Simple and luxe and retro, Jacobs paired everything with bedazzled Dr. Scholls sandals and velvet Mary Janes reminiscent of those cute “China doll” cotton shoes you wore as a child.
Jacobs’ style isn’t to everyone’s taste but I predict that high-street retailers will start turning out pieces inspired his Spring 2015 RTW collection before spring gets here.
Ciao for now …